Build Article #4 closed with the strips all ready to start ‘the stripping'.
First the temporary stations need to be covered with a plastic tape, to prevent the strips from being bonded to them .
Pic-1 shows the strips now scarfed full length. It's very important when fitting the first strip port and starboard, to check that each station is vertical—see Pic-2. It's recommended to lay the first strip about half way between the knuckle and the keel. Once one side is laid fair, measure off its position and repeat the same location on the other side. Pic-3 shows the first four strips each side. Strips are temporarily held to the stations with screws. They are bonded to the transom and the stem but NOT to the temporary build stations.
Pic-4 and Pic-5, show the same first four strips from different angles. Use a very lightweight, easy-to-sand filler like Q‑Cell™—it does not need to be much stronger than the foam after all. Clean off any excess filler before it hardens in order to reduce the sanding effort. Pic-6 shows the stern completed and one can see the remaining open area near amidships that can benefit from a heavier density foam. If not, plan to add an extra fiberglass or Kevlar™ layer in this critical area as the main hull may one day come to rest on a rocky bottom!
Here we see the lower main hull almost completely stripped. Note that the strips end very simply at the bow, on a narrow V-shaped piece of high density foam that is sanded off flat for the moment. Later, once the upper sides are fitted, a false stem will be added to complete the final fairing. Pic-9 shows the bottom being routed out to take the CB case flange, which was already completed with side logs of fiberglass. (See earlier article and manual.)
Pic-10 shows the centerboard case being lowered into the lower hull. If the logs were correctly shaped as detailed in the plans and manual, the outer edge will lay flush with the hull and after sanding and filling, will be totally non-apparent (see Pic-11), except for the recess moulded into the fiberglass for the centerboard seal - as required for the long slot centerboard version shown here. (There is also an optional quadrant centerboard of less depth, that will not require a seal—see plans and manual.) Pic-11 and 12, show the outer hull nicely faired off with micro-balloons and ready for the first layer of glass.
Build Article #6 will cover the glassing and finishing of the lower main hull, prior to removing it from the mould and turning it, ready for the topsides.
With all this good info now available, perhaps it's time for some of you enthusiasts to start building your own! Write to me for the info package. Several boats have already been started, so you'll not be the only ones!
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